Enjoy Fall with Ayinger.

As you enjoy your Octoberfest beers this fall, be sure you pick up one of the classics. To me, the Ayinger brewery in Bavaria represents a benchmark of German beer excellence. Their marzen is a classic to be consumed during Oktoberfest season. Interestingly, one would never see Ayinger at the real Oktoberfest in Munich, as that event doesn’t allow breweries outside its city limits to participate. (Instead, Ayinger flows freely at smaller festivals held in the countryside outside Munich.)

Thankfully, most decent beer stores carry the Ayinger line and their “OktoberFest-Marzen” during fall months. Go find it. It’s brewed to traditional perfection. Here’s what to expect:

Deep gold in color.  A stark white head is big at first, but diminishes to a faint film. Lacing isn't significant, but usually isn’t for the style. The aroma smells of caramel, bread, faint brown sugar, and a little spice.

The taste is simple but fulfilling. Notes of biscuit and caramel balance the moderate bittering hops. The yeast is a little spicy. Overall it leans a tad to the sweet side, and enjoyable so. The mouthfeel is appropriately on the lighter side, but it’s soft, and even a bit creamy. The drinkability is easy-going and – if you want an odd food pairing idea – I found it to go oddly well with sweet onions dipped in hummus. Don’t grimace until you try it.

I love the Bavarian scene on the bottle cap, and the fact that it comes in a 17oz bottle means it begs to be poured into a tall weizen glass. And there’s not a sexier looking beer than a tall weizen glass overflowing with a frothy, quality German brew. Grab'em while they're around. 


Grade: A+

Brewery Tour Stop #6: Haverhill Brewery

My wife and I had another toddler birthday party to go to this past weekend. Just like we’ve done before, we immediately think of breweries nearby to make the trip more interesting. As the kiddie bash was in Haverhill MA, we obviously thought of Haverhill Brewery. One brewery is all we planned to hit. But as the day progressed we didn’t stop there. We found ourselves at the Red Hook and Portsmouth Breweries as well. But let's look at Haverhill Brewery today (also known as “The Tap”, locally) and the sexy women that adorn their bottle labels.

We strolled into the Brewery’s pub around 2:30PM on a beautiful Saturday. This is a fairly large place split into two sides; restaurant on one, pub/bar on the other. It’s fairly dark inside. Old, gritty, well-loved. We sat at the bar and only after ordering a couple beer samplers did we discover a beautiful deck out back. We wished we sat outside, but I didn’t know if one had to order food out there, which wasn’t our original plan. We did end up ordering pickle chips, but I didn’t want to move at this point as I felt the bartender would lose out on the tip she earned thus far. If you visit The Tap and it’s a nice day, check out the deck first. 

Diving into our samplers, I first tasted my wife’s Homerun pale ale. Interestingly, this one doesn’t score well on BeerAdvocate or RateBeer, but my wife and I couldn't understand why. A significant hop profile was citrusy and leaf-like, while the malt was doughy and prominent. My wife loved this one, and as I can’t always notice such distinct hop and malt profiles simultaneously in other pale ales, it gets two thumbs up from me, too.

Next was their altbier, called Gestalt. It’s a pretty, dark copper ale that tastes and smells fairly simple; a little nutty and bready. Earthy hops are barely there, and carbonation is a little low. This is quite similar to Long Trail’s flagship ale. Satisfactory enough, if not a bit boring. Moving on...

What ended up as my favorite of the bunch was next in line – a hoppy schwarzbier. I recently brewed my own hoppy schwarzbier at a brew-on-premise facility, thinking “nobody’s done that before!” Haverhill shut me up. Their version had a great charcoal/bonfire note to it that was immediately noticeable. It sported relatively low carbonation (something my homebrew cannot claim), and a floral hop bouquet on the finish. This is my top recommendation at Haverhill for malt lovers.

My next sample took a nosedive down the enjoyment ladder. Their berliner weissbier was a complete change of pace from the schwarzbier. Picture a higher-end, alcoholic lemonade. It's one of the higher rated Haverhill beers on BeerAdvocate. Granted, it’s not as if it isn’t brewed to style. Its yellow, foggy straw color and its tart, sour, lemony flavor is appropriate for its breed, as well as its low, 3% ABV. But, I don’t drink enough “berliners”, and therefore can't say how well it compares to others. This one may work well on a hot day for people who normally drink Mike’s Hard Lemonade.

I, on the other hand, will pass.

Next up was a sample of the one beer I know fairly well from Haverhill - Leatherlips IPA. They bottle it and it's easy enough to find at a decent beer store. What I love about this IPA is that it's full of grassy, piney hops, which gives you the impression it's higher in alcohol. Normally, when an IPA tastes like this, I expect it to be at least 6.5% ABV. This is a mere 5.0%. That's unheard of for an IPA that offers such an abundance of citric, piney, and bitter hop notes. It would please any hophead looking for a serious fix. If you've ever been on the hunt for a (dare I say) sessionable IPA, this may do the trick. But, for me, it's bitterness would get cumbersome after two or three glasses.  One glass is certainly enjoyable, though.

I finished with their Oktoberfest. I love this style and hoped for greatness. It was fine enough. Typical, accurate, but didn’t stand out. I wished it had a bigger malt presence, but there was nothing wrong with it. It’s probably agreeable enough with most patrons.

So there were highs and lows at The Tap/Haverhill Brewery. I do recommend a visit to see for yourself, and there’s no better time to make the trip than this weekend. They’re putting on a brewfest this Saturday and other local brewers will be there pouring their own deliciousness. Participating breweries beyond Haverhill themselves, include: Notch, John Harvard’s, High and Mighty, Clown Shoes, Ipswich, Martha’s Exchange, Cisco, Sam Adams, Cape Ann, Boston Beer Works, Jack’s Abby, Harpoon, Watch City, Mayflower, Original Sin Cider, Frosty Knuckle, Narragansett, Woodchuck Cider, and Woodstock Inn Station. More info at www.haverhillbrewery.com/.

Stay tuned for a report from Red Hook Brewery in NH – a brand I struggle with and the cause of debates with my best friend.

Haverhill Brewery at The Tap Brewpub
100 Washington St.

Haverhill, MA

978-374-1117

Pumpkin Beer Installment # 2: Shipyard vs. Shipyard

A discussion about pumpkin beers in New England is not complete without mention of Shipyard Brewing from Portland ME. Why? Because their Pumpkinhead Ale is seemingly the most available pumpkin beer around in Autumn. You’ll often see 6-packs, 12-packs, and cases of it stacked high in every corner of liquor stores. Most people either love it or hate it.

I…do not love it. When I gave it a thorough critique last year on BeerAdvocate.com, its aroma was flat immediately after the pour. I told myself the aroma was just...uhm, distant. Subtle. And therefore the flavor would be elegant. Yeah, elegant. I was wrong. It was mediocre at best with only a faint hint of fall spices and a malt profile that tasted cheaper than the free coffee at Building 19. My message to Shipyard is this: Budweiser called - they lost their pumpkin ale recipe and they suspect you have it.

Shipyard makes another pumpkin beer called “Smashed Pumpkin”. It’s part of the brewery’s “Pugsley's Signature Series” that consists of unique beers, with higher ABV's, released in 22oz bottles. 

I recently poured a Smashed Pumpkin into a tulip glass and saw a nice copper/amber brew with little head. The aroma was stern with nutmeg and cinamon spices. Pumpkin notes lied underneath.

The flavor was big. Pumpkin pie hit me first. It’s strong, but not cloying. Munich malts add significant bread-like malt flavors. Cinnamon and nutmeg spices linger on the tongue in the end, along with a little alcohol warmth.

The mouthfeel isn’t too heavy. It’s generally smooth, albeit a little prickly at the beginning from the alcohol bite.

In the end I was happy that Shipyard is able to make a decent pumpkin beer. Although it’s more expensive, I’d always choose Smashed Pumpkin over the Pumpkinhead Ale. The thing is, there are still plenty of people who love Pumpkinhead.  I’d strongly argue that there are way too many good pumpkin brews in New England to waste your time with Pumpkinhead, but see for yourself if you haven’t already. After all, if taste wasn't subjective, none of this would be any fun.

Hello Fall Seasonals! - Berkshire Brewing's Oktoberfest Lager

It’s my favorite time of year. For beer that is. Labor Day is in the books and the unofficial beginning of Autumn has begun. That means brewers across the world are now unleashing their Fall seasonal beers - märzens/oktoberfests, pumpkin ales – they’re all delicious to me. Some more than others, but my beer palate is easy to please at this time of year. I’ll be reviewing a handful of them this season, and up first is Berkshire Brewing’s Oktoberfest lager.

Berkshire Brewing, in South Deerfield Massachusetts, is in the zone between Summer and Fall. I find their Summer seasonal, “Czech Pilsner”, to be stellar. But the greatness doesn’t stop there. As September rolls in I find their Oktoberfest Lager on the shelves. Between those 2 beers, I’m not sure which I like more.

Taking a closer look at their Oktoberfest, it’s rusty copper in color, with an off-white head that laces well.  The aroma showcases a sweeter malt than one would expect for the style. Most märzens have a sweeter malt profile, but Berkshire’s kicks it up a notch. Caramel and brown sugar come to mind immediately. I also didn’t expect to get esters of pumpkin in the aroma, as beers with characteristics of pumpkin are typically have the word “pumpkin” in their name.

Letting a few gulps roll on my tongue, I get a dominant flavor of brown-sugar malts. Notes of pumpkin and banana are present with a touch of hops. And there’s an underlying breadiness to it all. Its medium-to-bold body is another area that helps set it apart from other oktoberfests.

Definitely one of the tastier oktoberfest lagers out there, and it's my wife's favorite for the style. Is it a traditional märzen/oktoberfest? Essentially, no. The volume on the malt profile is turned up and beyond where other märzens lie. It’s as if it pays homage to the best characteristic of a traditional märzen by exaggerating it, and it's a successfully creative take on the style. But, what is traditional about it is that it’s brewed with appropriate German hops and yeasts, and also because it’s aged for months before release. (Traditional märzens are brewed in March, and aged until oktoberfest season in Setpember.)  If you like maltier beers and fall spices, I encourage you to run to the store for this one.

Grade: B+

Berkshire Brewing Company Inc.
Berkshire Oktoberfest Lager
Märzen / Oktoberfest |  6.80% ABV

Revival of Session Beers with Notch Brewing

A renaissance is coming in the world of craft beer. It’s the resurgence of “session” beers. One of this movement's local leaders is Chris Lohring - formerly of Tremont Brewery - now founder of Notch Brewing.

What's a session beer you ask? Essentially, a beer that’s lower in alcohol. Though there’s often debate as to where the ABV (alcohol by volume) cutoff mark is for a session beer, it’s commonly thought to be at or below 4.5%. An ABV of 5.0% is acceptable as "sessionable" by modern-day beer geeks, but traditionalists disagree.

Years ago, drinking a few beers at lunch before returning to work was not frowned upon. Times have changed because, among other things, beer has changed. In Britain, session beers were commonplace due to taxation around on a beer’s alcohol level. Brewers had to develop flavorful and desirable beers that hovered below 4.0% (as a point of reference, Bud Light has an ABV of 4.2%).

What’s common among beer geeks is their love for beers with names that include words like “imperial” and “double”. These beers are higher in alcohol. And it’s not uncommon to find them aged in oak, whiskey, or bourbon barrels. Left behind, though, are session beers.

Beer geeks will never tell you they don’t care for session beers. They’ll advocate for them with honesty. However, they won't rate them as high as double IPA’s, barleywines, and Russian imperial stouts; what are typically referred to as “big” beers.

According to Chris Lohring:

            “We’re not sure when high flavor beer became synonymous with astronomical ABV, but to us it doesn’t seem right. Drink a "delicious" beer these days means you're falling off your stool after three... The art of great beer without a debilitating ABV seems all but dead.”

It’s with this mindset that Lohring started Notch Brewing in Massachusetts. Like a few other local brewers without a home, Lohring contracts time from the Ipswich Ale Brewery to brew on their equipment.

I recently had a poker game with some friends. Being a fan of appropriate beers for appropriate situations, I brought the Notch Session Pils. We typically have a few beers at poker night, and because I had a 45 minute drive home after, I didn't want to drink anything too high in ABV.

The pilsner was a hit. At first I notice that it's yellow color is foggy, unlike most of its pilsner brethren. Although, some believe classic Czech-style pilsners are not always as clear as their German counterparts. 

A large, white frothy head forms and laces well down the glass. There’s a little malt husk in the aroma with notes of bright hops and yeast.

The taste combines flavors of bread, a little wheat grass, and lemon zest. I can tell it has Pils malt, and Saaz hops. Its malt profile tastes faintly of corn at times, which is undesirable terrain for my liking, but it never quite falls victim to it.

The mouthfeel is a little slick. It drinks smoother rather than crisp, which I didn't expect, but enjoyed. 

Drinkability is high of course because of its ABV. But lets not forget that taste plays an important role into the idea of drinkability. Just because a beer is low in ABV doesn't mean it's tasty enough to warrant a few. The Notch pils satisfies both needs and is worth picking up again for the right occasion. It doesn’t beat my favorite pilsners, which tend to be crisper, but it’s well made and worth the money. In the end, I was left with enough curiosity to try more from Notch.

As you spend one last afternoon around the grill this Labor Day weekend, I encourage you to put down that double IPA and oak-aged imperial stout. Instead, try a situation-appropriate session beer. Of course there are other low-ABV choices beyond Notch. But not many others pull it off while still providing big flavor. Notch is making it happen right in our backyard, and that deserves our attention.

Grade: B

Notch Brewing

http://www.notchsession.com/

Brewery Tour Stop #5: Just Beer Brewing

Want to buy beer without having to get your lazy butt out of your car? Head to Just Beer Brewing in the farm hills of Westport MA.

I’m convinced “Just Beer” is tied for the title of world’s flattest brewery name alongside Danish brewery “Beer Here”. OK, I guess it’s uniquely simple and honest [golf clap]. As I discovered they make quality beer, I overlook the name.

Just Beer used to be Buzzards Bay Brewing. The Buzzards Bay brand was discontinued in the fall of 2009, and Just Beer was born. The facility is the same, and they still contract brew for a few notable brands including Nantucket’s own Cisco Brewers, and Offshore Ale from Martha’s Vineyard.

In addition to contract brewing for the aforementioned brands, the facility is also used by the popular husband-and-wife duo, Pretty Things Beer and Ale project. Dan and Martha (the Pretty Things team) set up here on occasion to brew their beer themselves, as opposed to having the Just Beer folks follow their recipe.

My wife and I grabbed her parents and made the trek to Westport to kill a gloomy Saturday afternoon. The driveway and entrance to the Just Beer farm is picturesque (apologies for the gloomy picture). They grow hay here to supplement their income. In fact, the amount of hay gown here ultimately helps the brewery obtain a negative carbon footprint – something they’re proud of. Their environmental efforts don’t stop there. They plan as many of their “boil" sessions as possible for one day to minimize energy consumption. And their leftover “mash” (from the “mashing” process) is sent to another local farm to feed cows.

Walking inside, you immediately enter a room where you can taste and buy beer. Three beers for tasting were on tap: “Golden Flounder”, “Dave & Ray lager”, and “Harry’s IPA.”

Golden Flounder was a low-ABV (4.6%) brew with a wheat malt bill. I call any beer at 4.5% ABV or lower, “sessionable”. This one was close enough and sure seemed inoffensive. Very light, but smooth. It would sure please many.

The Dave & Ray lager is their newest beer. If I had a blind sample of this, I’d guess it was their stab at an Octoberfest/marzen given its color and slightly sweet malt body. (They didn’t necessarily say it wasn’t a marzen.) As a bonus, the brew had a faint farmhouse funk at the end, which I loved.

Harry’s IPA, also known as “Case of the IPA”, had the highest ABV out of the three we tried – 6.0%. However, that’s the minimum expected ABV for an IPA. What’s lovely about this brew is that its big hop punch gave you the impression it contained more alcohol. It was a bit bitter, but very flavorful with resiny, leafy hops. A man behind me claimed, “waaay too much hops in there for me!” Not for me, though.

My favorite of the 3 was the lager, which we purchased a growler of. It paired nicely with fried chicken and sweet potato fries later that evening.

It was surprisingly busy there for a day that was rainy and altogether uninviting to leave home. Although their website claims they don’t offer tours, a gentleman asked for one. The girl behind the counter kindly offered to provide one to everyone in the room. She filled a small pitcher of Golden Flounder and took us all into the facility, kindly refilling our tasting cups during her talk.

After the tour I sneaked a sample of something else called “Undrinkable”.  It was not on tap, but in a 750 ml bottle that someone opened to share with someone else. Dark malts mixed with a Belgian-like sourness and a fizzy mouthfeel. Not undrinkable to me, but to others it may be. Pair it with a funky cheese and I’m sure it’s enjoyable.

On our way out the door, we also bought a 22oz. bottle of their pale ale called Moby D for only $2.50. It wasn’t available for tasting, but given the price and the quality of the brews I did taste, I couldn’t pass it up.

Our visit concluded at this point, but let me reiterate one thing I mentioned earlier. Yes, you can buy beer here without getting out of your car. It’s a beer drive-through! Open during the summer, you can purchase a case (or more) from their drive-up service. Pull up around back, honk your horn, and tell the man what you want. (You don't have to get out of your car, but if you're a decent person, you may help the man fit the beer into your trunk.) Depending on whether you want a mix pack or single-style case, all you need to fork over is $15 - $20 per case. I heard someone got three cases here for a special $35 price. Great deal! 

So get off your lazy butt and support local, fresh beer - possibly without having to get out of your car.

Just Beer Brewing

98 Horseneck Rd

Westport, MA

(508) 636-2288

Thursday and Friday, 1:00 – 5:00PM: Bottle sale only
Saturdays, 11:00AM – 6:00PM: Tastings and growlers 

(Growler fills only on Saturday.)

Brewery Tour Stop #4: Offshore Ale Company

If you haven’t been to Martha’s Vineyard, you should go for two reasons:

1) Back Door Donuts (also called “Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery” for the civilized folk)

2) Offshore Ale Company

OK, there are many more reasons to go to MV. It’s a wonderful island. But these two food spots in the busy village of Oak Bluffs are highlights. Before I talk about Offshore Ale Company, let me make clear that I’m not joking about Back Door Donuts. Go there. Do not question me. The apple fritters are intense, the donuts delectable, and the ice coffee is unbeatable (take note Dunks). Plus, with any bakery purchase, you get a free “I Love Back Door Donuts” bumper sticker. What more do you want?

Spitting distance from Back Door Donuts is Offshore Ale Company. On a recent trip to MV, my wife and I visited twice.

Do you like eating complimentary peanuts and throwing shells on the floor? Offshore welcomes you and expects this type of behavior. This is a popular place for dinner. It’s in a busy part of town, and because it’s not huge, there’s often a wait for tables. Unfortunately the bar area is not huge, but we’ve been lucky to score a seat there on all four visits going back to last year.  

One reason I like this place is because although it’s super casual, the food is above typical pub fair. The kitchen is exposed, providing a bistro feel, and they put an artisanal touch on familiar comfort dishes. The food we’ve had was delicious.

They brew on site and beautiful copper brewing kettles are visible through a glass wall into a separate room. In this room you can also see a chalkboard listing upcoming beers. It will tell you which are boiling, which are fermenting, etc. Nice touch, even though I sadly won't be around to drink them.

Let’s talk beer. Ladies first. My better half had the Menemsha Creek Pale Ale which she declared a “good pizza beer.” I tasted it as well and agree. It has a familiar, faint caramel malt and with a touch of floral hops.

On to better things, we both had a pint of “Hop Goddess” and began to feel that we were now in business. If you’re a hop head, grab this. I feel it’s a cross between an American IPA and a Belgian pale ale. It looks cloudy and bright orange in color. Strong hops own the aroma with a touch of apricot. The taste is full of citrus, as well as floral and resiny hops, blended with almost Belgian-style yeastiness. It’s smooth, a bit dry, and quenchable. Highly recommended.

The Steep Rock Stout was another winner in my book. Pitch black with a white head one-finger in size. Its aroma was a mix of baker’s chocolate, charcoal, and slight molasses. The taste was similar to the aroma, with notable notes of roasted grain, oats, and coffee. Dry and easy to drink. This one earns another high recommendation.

I did taste their imperial stout called “Inkwell”. This is similar to the Steep Rock Stout, but with a lot more heat thanks to its 10% ABV. However, it didn’t impressed me because it couldn’t hide its alcohol well, which ruined the flavor profile. If you want a stout here, stick to the Steep Rock.

Not during the most recent visit, but the first time we were here, I had their amber ale and Helles Bock. The amber ale can be considered their flagship. You can find bottles of it in stores. It’s serviceable, and boasts toasty malts with faint hops that only serve to keep the brew balanced. An agreeable table beer for the majority of their audience.

I remember being impressed with the Helles Bock. It was refreshing, crisp, and floral. A great summer beer.

Recommended? Yes. Very much so. But, let’s be honest. If you’re a beer geek on the Vineyard, there’s no other brewery to go to. Are there bars with a few decent taps? Sure. But, breweries? No. Luckily this one’s a good one with satisfying food. Just skip dessert there and head to Back Door Donuts (I mean, Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery) for fine pastry.

Offshore Ale Company

Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs

Martha’s Vineyard